Story Highlight
– Grand Seiko launched 9RB2 Spring Drive movement with high accuracy.
– SLGB005 ‘Violet Dawn’ features unique purple dial design.
– New model crafted from corrosion-resistant Ever-Brilliant Steel.
– Lacks micro-adjust clasp found in previous titanium model.
– Limited to 1,300 pieces, available starting November.
Full Story
This spring at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko unveiled its latest achievement in horology: the 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, touted as the most precise wristwatch movement reliant on a mainspring currently available, with an impressive accuracy of plus or minus twenty seconds annually. The description conveys that, while the Spring Drive mechanism diverges from traditional mechanical timepieces by integrating a glide wheel and an electronic system paired with a quartz crystal, it produces the beloved smooth sweeping second hand characteristic of this technology. The level of accuracy achieved represents a significant enhancement for Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive innovations, which have been developed at the Shinshu Watch Studio.
The new SLGB005 ‘Violet Dawn’ marks the third addition to the brand’s Ultra-Fine Accuracy (UFA) series, following the previously introduced SLBG001 in platinum and SLGB003 in titanium. At a glance, one might mistake the SLGB005 for just a variant of the standard 37mm titanium model; however, it boasts subtle distinctions that set it apart.
This model is crafted from Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant Steel, which offers enhanced corrosion resistance and a lighter aesthetic relative to traditional steel. By adhering to the Evolution 9 design values, the watch features a combination of brushed surfaces complemented by selectively polished areas using Zaratsu techniques. The compact 37mm case, 11.4mm thickness, and a water resistance of 100 meters cater to those who found the SLGB001 too lightweight, adding a more substantial feel to this iteration.
Intriguingly, the SLGB005 lacks the new micro-adjust clasp announced with the SLGB003, a detail that may perplex many enthusiasts. It appears the absence of this clasp results from unprepared tooling for steel production, likely disappointing collectors anticipating its standard inclusion in future releases. Notably, the retail price of $11,100 for the SLGB005 is slightly elevated compared to the titanium SLGB003, which retails at $10,900. However, it’s conceivable that prices might adjust, particularly for titanium models post recent increases.
A distinguishing feature of this limited edition is the solid 18k rose gold Grand Seiko medallion affixed to its clasp, a visual hallmark often associated with special series. Previously, variations have seen the added gold elements applied to the dial’s “GS” logo, but in this instance, the classic silver treatment may resonate better with the dial’s aesthetic, enhancing the overall harmony of design.
However, the dial remains the main attraction of the Violet Dawn. Featuring the “Ice Forest” pattern reminiscent of frost-laden trees from the Kirigamine Highlands, the dial adopts a rich purple hue which gradually lightens towards the centre. This lacquer finish offers a striking shift in appearance, transforming from a solid glossy look in lower light to a vibrant, textured surface in daylight. Grand Seiko poetically describes the dial as “evoking the forests slowly emerging in the morning light.”
The vibrant display of the purple dial, particularly with its Ice Forest motif, is exceptionally captivating. Although the ice blue from earlier models had its charm, many enthusiasts, including myself, have long awaited a darker dial variant for the Evolution 9 UFA series. The new hue, accented by a gradient, creates a dynamic visual, and the quality of lacquer delivers a notable brilliance, inviting frequent outdoor comparison due to its diverse appearances under different lighting conditions.
The exhibition case back, with a discreetly etched Grand Seiko logo, reveals the robust 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, which boasts a 72-hour power reserve and the remarkable accuracy of +/- 20 seconds annually. This advancement is attributed to innovative manufacturing techniques for the quartz oscillator and enhancements to the thermocompensated integrated circuit system. Additionally, for the first time, a regulation switch introduced in a Spring Drive movement simplifies timing adjustments for watchmakers during servicing.
Limited to 1,300 units, the SLGB005 is set for release in November at Grand Seiko Boutiques and select authorised dealers. While undeniably beautiful, the desire for the captivating dial to be incorporated into standard production alongside the titanium SLGB003 remains strong, with hopes that a non-limited UFA model in steel may emerge, ideally featuring the micro-adjustable clasp as well.
For additional details, please visit Grand Seiko.