Story Highlight
– Chanel invests in Ebel, aiming for brand revival.
– Frédéric Grangié emphasizes Ebel’s growth potential.
– Past attempts to revive Ebel have failed consistently.
– Chanel’s strategy supports independent watchmakers without interference.
– Ebel’s turnaround could redefine brand revival approaches.
Full Story
Chanel’s Latest Investment: A New Chapter for Ebel in Swiss Watchmaking
Chanel, a name more commonly associated with high fashion, has taken an unexpected turn in the realm of Swiss horology by investing in the iconic brand Ebel, in collaboration with the esteemed watchmaker F.P. Journe. This strategic move marks a significant shift as the luxury French house seeks to restore and enhance the reputation of a brand that has struggled in recent decades.
Ebel, known for its distinctive designs and rich heritage, has faced challenges in regaining its former status, with previous attempts to revitalise the brand falling short. Frédéric Grangié, Chanel’s president of watches and fine jewellery, expressed optimism about the partnership, stating, “Ebel is one of the great names of Swiss watchmaking, with a rich heritage, a distinctive creative identity and a strong foundation for future growth. This investment reflects our confidence in the brand’s long-term potential and our commitment to supporting its development while preserving the craftsmanship, excellence, and values that have defined Ebel for generations.”
Historically, the last half-century has seen various entities, including LVMH and the Movado Group, trying to rejuvenate Ebel, with limited success. Grangié’s comments are particularly poignant given the brand’s ongoing decline despite its once-thriving status. The $66.5 million acquisition signals Movado’s recognition that it could no longer effectively steer the brand towards revival.
Chanel’s interest in Ebel presents a distinctly different undertaking compared to its other investments in the watch industry. Rather than acquiring high-demand independent brands, this venture focuses on restoring a historical luxury brand that needs significant reconstruction. With Chanel’s impressive financial standing—sales reaching $19.3 billion and an operating profit of $4.7 billion in 2025—the investment represents a modest risk.
Since beginning its journey in Swiss watchmaking in 1993 with the purchase of G&F Châtelain, Chanel has progressively expanded its portfolio to include a variety of watch manufacturers. Investments in the past have included stakes in Bell & Ross and Romain Gauthier, as well as a significant investment in F.P. Journe and an interest in Kenissi, a movement manufacturer associated with Tudor.
This approach—wherein Chanel takes minority stakes while allowing watchmakers to maintain creative control—appears to position the brand uniquely within the luxury watch sector. Unlike industry giants such as Richemont or LVMH, which tend to consolidate their brands under a unified operational umbrella, Chanel appears committed to providing independent watchmakers with the support they need to thrive without interfering in their artistry.
However, it remains crucial to understand that no investment is entirely altruistic. Chanel undoubtedly benefits from the relationships and technical knowledge garnered through its partnerships, leveraging these to enhance its competitive edge within the industry. This model elevates the significance of nurturing independent watchmakers, ensuring that their unique characteristics are preserved rather than lost in corporate acquisitions.
The Ebel deal, therefore, is of particular interest, signifying a potential shift in how historic Swiss watch brands might be revived. With its heritage and established design identity, Ebel represents a project that could redefine brand restoration within the luxury watch segment, diverging from conventional ownership strategies seen with larger conglomerates.
Chanel’s watch division, while modestly sized within the broader market—with sales of CHF 390 million placing it just within the top 20 Swiss watchmakers—may be on the brink of becoming a formidable force by virtue of its influence on the preservation of craftsmanship and nurturing of creative talents.
A Short History of Ebel
Founded in 1911 in La Chaux-de-Fonds by Eugène Blum and Alice Lévy, Ebel quickly became known for its exquisite craftsmanship and elegant designs. The brand achieved notable success through the latter half of the 20th century, particularly with its integrated-bracelet watches that captivated the luxury market during the 1980s and 1990s. However, Ebel’s fortunes waned following a series of ownership changes and shifts in market demand, leading to its eventual acquisition by Movado Group in 2004 after being owned by LVMH.
Notable milestones in Ebel’s history include the introduction of its influential Sport Classic model in 1977 and the establishment of its 1911 collection in 1986. Despite the challenges faced in the 1990s and beyond, the recent partnership with Chanel and F.P. Journe signals a potential resurgence for Ebel as it embarks on a transformative journey to reclaim its place among the elite of Swiss watchmaking.
