Story Highlight
– Time+Tide opens three studios in Melbourne, London, New York.
– Partnerships promote independent watch brands, enhancing visibility.
– Toledano & Chan released hyped watch B/1 through studios.
– New York studio aims to attract younger watch enthusiasts.
– Funding for New York studio came from private investors.
Full Story
Andrew McUtchen, a former music journalist, often reflects on the challenge that accompanies a second album. In a similar vein, he has been assessing independent watchmakers through his media and retail venture, Time+Tide, questioning whether they represent fleeting success or the potential for lasting influence.
This evaluation is pivotal for McUtchen when determining collaborations, showcasing, and featuring niche watch brands at his three Discovery Studios, which have been established since 2023. These locations are situated in Melbourne, London, and a recent addition in New York City.
Among the prominent British independent watch brands associated with Time+Tide are Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g, which act as cornerstone brands in London and New York. The two entities collaborate closely, engaging in mutual promotion to enhance visibility and strengthen their market presence.
The New York Studio was officially introduced to North American consumers with a launch event by Studio Underd0g for its Classic Cheese & Burnt Pepper0ni watches. Christopher Ward has been active in both cities, hosting collector gatherings, although its recent inauguration of a showroom in SoHo suggests a strategic pivot towards focusing on direct customer engagement there.
A noteworthy partnership exists with Toledano & Chan, which made headlines with the much-anticipated release of its B/1 watch in 2024. Time+Tide not only reported on this launch but also played a crucial role in crafting the brand’s narrative through various media, showcasing it as a remarkable new contender in the market.
Toledano & Chan has also leveraged Time+Tide Studios for various functions, including a watch launch just before the New York location officially opened its doors. When the brand unveiled its B/1.2 model, it opted for Time+Tide’s London Studio, allotting about 20 pieces of this limited edition for that venue. Its B/1.3R model, priced nearly at £10,000, was introduced at Time+Tide New York and is available in multiple locations, including Melbourne and London. Notably, Australian actor Russell Crowe, a long-time friend of McUtchen, purchased one and shared an unboxing video that garnered significant attention online.
“We can see indies going mainstream with this type of activity,” states McUtchen.
The Discovery Studios in London and Melbourne have quickly garnered interest from watch enthusiasts seeking to experience independent brands that primarily operate online. Traditional watch companies, such as TAG Heuer and Tudor, have also opted to introduce exclusive editions or host pop-up events in collaboration with Time+Tide in London, drawn by its digitally-savvy, engaged, and predominantly younger audience.
The New York Studio, however, faces a unique set of challenges, given the fierce competition in the city’s watch retail landscape, which is also the largest market globally. A visit to the facility shortly after its opening revealed a space larger than its counterparts, measuring 2,200 square feet, featuring a second-floor lounge housing exclusive brands like Toledano & Chan and Sartory Billard. Similar to the earlier studios, it is discreetly located above street level, accessible via a small entrance between fashion outlets, lacking prominent signage—a possible hurdle in gaining visibility in a city where Time+Tide is less established than in London or Melbourne.
McUtchen notes that while the US accounts for a substantial portion of the site’s online traffic, the vastness of the country, with a population significantly larger than the UK, presents its own challenges. To thrive, Time+Tide must replicate its UK success by fostering strong partnerships with independent brands, creating content that draws fans to launch events and activities held at the Studio.
The space also serves as a venue for collector clubs, with the Gotham Watch Club anticipated to host an event, and an English Watch Weekender scheduled for May. As the face of Time+Tide’s digital initiatives, McUtchen recognizes the necessity of engaging with America’s leading social media influencers, stating, “I need to be seen to be everywhere.”
Visitor numbers to the New York Studio are gradually increasing, with sales of higher-priced watches reportedly performing better in the US market. “There is better liquidity; they are quicker to spend,” he explains.
Time+Tide financed its initial studios entirely but secured around £3 million in funding from a select group of private investors for the New York project. McUtchen describes these contributors as having a “philanthropic” focus, aiming to nurture watch culture rather than seeking immediate financial gain.
The stakes were heightened during the construction phase, which McUtchen describes as incredibly challenging. Although the studio was set to launch in time for the previous holiday season, complications associated with renovating a historic building resulted in a delay until February. Construction costs were exacerbated by tariffs imposed during the Trump administration that increased the expense of imported materials.
Despite obstacles and rising expenses, McUtchen remains confident about the overall business strategy but acknowledges the need for foot traffic to flourish. A packed event schedule and collaborative promotion with available brands, including popular American independents such as Oak & Oscar and Monta Watch, as well as renowned imports, will be essential.
The business model requires each brand to demonstrate its value, with Time+Tide prepared to swiftly adjust its partnerships based on emerging trends and performance.
