Story Highlight
– Toledano & Chan introduce original ripple dial design.
– Swiss-made b/1.3r features gold and titanium materials.
– Collectors seek creativity beyond traditional luxury brands.
– Price increase demands tangible value justification.
– Smaller 32mm case enhances design dialogue and elegance.
Full Story
Toledano & Chan have launched a distinctive watch that signifies a departure from the prevalent trend of stone dials in luxury timepieces. The designers have argued that stone dials, once symbols of elegance and exclusivity, have become overly commonplace. Instead of opting for a standard stone dial, they have crafted a “ripple dial” made from 18K solid gold, inspired by the fluidity of water.
The b/1.3r model is crafted in Switzerland, featuring a full Grade 5 titanium case and bracelet, alongside an asymmetrical sapphire crystal. With a reduced size of 32mm compared to its predecessor, this timepiece is powered by the Sellita SW100 movement and is priced at $10,200. To gain insight into their philosophy, WatchPro interviewed the founders, Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan.
When asked about the choice to innovate rather than source existing materials, Toledano and Chan explained, “Stone dials used to be a signifier of both luxury and rarity, but over the last year or so, it felt like there was a tsunami of stone dials. They became a commodity, rather than something special. We decided it would be much more interesting to try and invent something new.”
The founders believe that the increasing interest in independent watch brands is driven by a desire for creative expression rather than conformity to established Swiss brands. They stated, “I think there are two factors driving collectors beyond the traditional brands. The first…is a desire for creativity, for something aesthetically new. The legacy brands …impede innovation sometimes. Secondly, of course, is price.”
On the topic of materials, Toledano and Chan elaborated on the implications for pricing, noting that the elevated cost is influenced by the choice of titanium over steel, the significant expense of gold, and the costs associated with Swiss manufacturing. However, they claim the material selections did not affect the design process.
The duo emphasized the importance of originality in their work, warning that trending designs can jeopardize the longevity of a brand. They stated, “I think it’s brand suicide for a young brand not to make an effort to say something new.”
As the market adapts to economic fluctuations, they acknowledged that collectors now expect substantial value for higher-priced pieces. “Every time we offer a watch at a price higher than the previous release, there must be a tangible reason for that increase,” they mentioned, noting the end of arbitrary price hikes.
Since their inception in 2021, Toledano & Chan have evolved in both technical and creative aspects, transitioning from lapis lazuli to mother-of-pearl, and now to solid gold dials. They remarked, “Technically, we’ve focused on refining the b/1…the challenge is how do you make the watch interesting and different every time.”
While the Selita SW100 movement is recognized as a practical choice, Toledano & Chan stress their focus on design over the movement itself, asserting that any movement upgrade must contribute aesthetically to the overall watch.
The influence of brutalist architecture and 1970s watch designs is evident in their creations. They described their approach, saying, “That’s like asking how much salt you want in your soup. The answer is ‘just enough.’”
Direct feedback from customers has played a role in the decision to adopt a slightly smaller case size for the b/1.3r. The designers explained, “By making the watch a little smaller, two things happen; you see the entirety of the design language, and secondly it becomes…a hair more elegant.”
Looking ahead, Toledano & Chan have ambitious plans for the future. They stated, “If we do our job properly, you’ll see things you’ve not seen before.”
Availability for the Toledano & Chan b/1.3r is set for February 12.
