Story Highlight
– Consumers seek jewellery with storytelling and statement value.
– Azza Fahmy reports 30% increase in foot traffic.
– Grand Egyptian Museum opening expected to boost demand.
– Authenticity research extends production time and costs.
– Designers explore new motifs inspired by Ancient Egypt.
Full Story
Ancient Egypt continues to inspire contemporary jewellers, reflecting a blend of cultural significance and commercial appeal. This fascination with symbols such as scarabs, lapis lazuli, and hieroglyphics has evolved into a strategic focus, where storytelling intertwines with design, catering to modern consumer preferences. Ruby Beales, jewellery buying manager at Liberty in London, notes, “Customers are looking for jewellery that tells a story as well as makes a statement.” This fusion of narrative and artistry has become crucial in a saturated market.
The recent surge in interest in ancient Egyptian themes is underscored by notable recent projects. The upcoming inauguration of the Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza, featuring treasures from Tutankhamun’s tomb, is anticipated to heighten demand for related jewellery. Azza Fahmy, a renowned Egyptian jeweller, has highlighted a 30% increase in customers visiting its boutique at the museum in the year leading up to August 2025, according to chief executive Fatma Ghaly.
A significant exhibition titled Egypt: Influencing British Design 1775-2025 will soon open at Sir John Soane’s Museum in London, featuring a late 20th-century enamelled brooch inspired by Tutankhamun’s gold death mask, as explained by Erin McKellar, assistant curator of exhibitions at the museum. The coffin of Tutankhamun is also set to move to the newly built Grand Egyptian Museum, further renewing interest in this iconic historical figure.
Jewellers are increasingly bold in integrating Ancient Egyptian motifs into their collections. Boucheron, based in Paris, has drawn on the ancient civilization’s innovation of the bow and arrow in its Flèche collection, crafted from 18ct white gold and diamonds. Meanwhile, Marli New York is channeling both the legacy of Cleopatra and the grandeur of the pyramids with its Cleo Pyramid stud earrings, priced at £2,460. Los Angeles designer Jacquie Aiche has presented a bar necklace and a cuff featuring the goddess Isis, symbolising wisdom and protection, priced at £44,900.
Creating jewellery inspired by Ancient Egypt entails careful research to ensure historical authenticity, making the process more time-consuming and expensive. Azza Fahmy’s Ghaly pointed out that their first collection took eight years of rigorous research, including numerous trips to Egypt’s southern regions, followed by three years of production. This commitment to authenticity distinguishes their work from clichéd designs often seen in local crafts.
Collaboration with other designers has emerged as a result of Azza Fahmy’s distinctive designs. The brand recently created a bronze bustier shaped like the Eye of Horus for the French fashion house Balmain, which was featured at the Young V&A in London.
Beirut-based Selim Mouzannar has developed a unique take on Ancient Egyptian aesthetics this fall, incorporating pharaonic purple garnet stones into his snake-themed designs. He highlights the affordability and quality of these rhodolite stones, which are sourced from the Nile and Upper Egypt.
The allure of Ancient Egyptian design also captivates affluent collectors. Mouzannar observes, “Some male collectors want to wear it, which is unusual,” contributing to a burgeoning interest in his pieces.
Ancient Egyptian jewellery, which dates back to around 3100BC – 332BC, has long been associated with protective symbolism for both life and the afterlife. Michael Coan, assistant professor of jewellery design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, explains that broad beaded collars emerged around 2025BC during funerary rituals, where wearing multiple necklaces was believed to hasten one’s journey to the afterlife.
Signet rings first emerged during the New Kingdom (1550BC to 1069BC), a period marked by significant craftsmanship. Hannah Solomon, head of antiquities at Christie’s New York, notes that these rings were used by pharaohs and officials to seal documents and assert authority.
London designer Rachel Boston has introduced her own interpretation of Ancient Egyptian design with the £1,800 Tether earrings, which incorporate coiling wirework. She aims to innovate by adopting ancient techniques to make her pieces lighter and more cost-effective, acknowledging the current high prices of gold.
As jewellers continue to explore Ancient Egyptian themes, Azza Fahmy’s Ghali envisions recreating the diverse wing forms depicted in ancient carvings, while Mouzannar is delving into Tutankhamun’s treasures for inspiration, and Hutchens is designing pieces inspired by the power associated with sphinxes.