Story Highlight
– Watches of Switzerland adds Daniel Roth to its portfolio.
– Daniel Roth is a pioneer of independent watchmaking.
– Roth trained in France, excelled in Swiss watchmaking.
– Brand relaunched in 2023, won prestigious watch prize.
– Roth now runs a small workshop, limited name use.
Full Story
Watches of Switzerland Group has recently announced the addition of high-end watch brand Daniel Roth to its collection, expanding its offerings to included diverse price ranges and styles.
Earlier this year, the retailer welcomed Timex to its roster, showcasing a more accessible approach to watchmaking. In contrast, Daniel Roth, under the ownership of LVMH, represents a pinnacle of independent watch craftsmanship.
Recognised as a pioneering figure in modern independent horology, Daniel Roth’s influence is seen in the works of contemporary masters like François-Paul Journe, Kari Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi. Born in France in 1945, Roth honed his skills in watchmaking before relocating to Switzerland, where he gained expertise at prestigious firms such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars Piguet.
In 1975, he joined Breguet, a brand facing difficulties at the time. Over 13 years, Roth revitalised its design through expert craftsmanship, notable for his hand-guilloché dials, distinctive coin-edge cases, and innovative approaches to complications, including the iconic tourbillon.
Roth established his own workshop in 1988, debuting with the Tourbillon C187, which gained traction among collectors keen on the burgeoning independent watch scene. Throughout the 1990s, his reputation grew, characterised by meticulous creations of low-production chronographs, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters.
As the independent market evolved, Roth’s brand garnered recognition alongside luminaries like Philippe Dufour and George Daniels as a cornerstone of the modern watchmaking landscape. However, in the mid-1990s, financial pressures led him to secure investment from The Hour Glass, a luxury retailer based in Singapore. This stake became controlling in 1994, but the brand was sold to Bulgari six years later. Following this change, Roth departed, leaving his brand in a period of uncertainty.
In 2022, ownership shifted again when LVMH integrated the brand into its Le Fabrique du Temps division. The relaunch in 2023 introduced the Tourbillon Souscription, a limited release of just 20 pieces, which won the prestigious Tourbillon Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Watches of Switzerland is leveraging this rich legacy as it markets the current limited-edition pieces, which are in high demand among retail partners. The ecommerce platform lists only four available models, including a rose gold Extra Plat priced at $67,000, a skeletonised variation at $113,000, and two editions of the Tourbillon, priced at $212,000 and $245,000 for the platinum variant.
Now in his early 80s, Daniel Roth has effectively stepped back from commercial watchmaking but continues to create timepieces. After leaving his eponymous brand post-Bulgari’s acquisition in 2000, he established a small family-operated workshop named Jean Daniel Nicolas in Le Sentier, located in the Vallée de Joux. Due to LVMH holding the rights to the Daniel Roth name, he has creatively used a combination of names from his son Jean-Daniel, himself, and his wife Nicole for his new brand identity.
