Story Highlight
– Francéclat almost doubled; India showcased over 50 exhibitors.
– Inhorgenta grew as Europe’s leading jewellery platform.
– All sectors, especially jewellery and watches, are expanding.
– India’s luxury market surges; jewelry exports reach $32 billion.
– Sustainability is a key focus throughout the industry.
Full Story
Inhorgenta has seen substantial growth, nearly doubling in size this year. India was the featured guest country, showcasing over 50 exhibitors through a collaboration with the Indian Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC). The partnership with the Fondation Haute Horlogerie (FHH) has enhanced Inhorgenta’s international stature, reinvigorated interest in the event, and resulted in high levels of visitor satisfaction. The upcoming Inhorgenta 2025 edition has firmly established the event as Europe’s premier platform for jewellery, watches, and gemstones, providing robust support for the industry and instilling confidence in future prospects.
The absence of Baselworld since its closure in 2019 has created a significant opportunity for Inhorgenta. The need for physical events where brands can connect with buyers remains crucial, and Inhorgenta addresses this demand effectively. Since its inception in 1974, the exhibition has distinguished itself by encompassing the entire value chain, previously known as the “International Trade Fair for Watches, Jewellery, Gemstones, and Silverware.” This gap left by Baselworld has allowed Inhorgenta to attract independent and mid-sized luxury brands, thereby enhancing its global profile. However, this growth is primarily attributed to Inhorgenta’s strategic evolution, initiated in 2016, well ahead of Baselworld’s challenges.
Growth is evident across various sectors, with significant entries in the jewellery market from brands such as Krisonia, Terzihan, and Yoko London. The watch sector is also witnessing a resurgence, highlighted by new presentations from Pavillon Francéclat, Eberhard & Co., Favre Leuba, and Fossil. The Carat hall, focused on gemstones, remains crucial, especially for goldsmiths. Efforts to invigorate the event have included participation in the International Colored Gemstone Association Congress in Brazil, aimed at forging new global partnerships.
Regarding market trends, the jewellery sector is evolving rapidly due to changing consumer preferences, digital advancements, and cultural shifts. Projections indicate a global growth rate of 4.8% annually through 2034. High-quality jewellery and mechanical watches are increasingly perceived as investments. Creative trends favour bold designs such as oversized earrings and chunky chains, while sustainability and responsible sourcing continue to be paramount. Additionally, digitalisation is leading to a rise in personalised and unique offerings, prompting jewellers to craft bespoke pieces that cater to individual customer desires.
As this year’s partner country, India is emerging as a key player in the luxury market, driven by its expanding middle class and increasing wealth. With jewellery exports valued at USD 32 billion, the sector is a vital component of India’s economy, and a prospective free trade agreement with the European Union is expected to further enhance growth. Feedback from exhibitors in the India Pavilion and the GJEPC has been overwhelmingly positive, with plans for many to return in the following year.
Sustainability has taken center stage, with its importance in the jewellery and gemstone supply chain becoming increasingly recognised. Inhorgenta has been highlighting these issues for several years, responding to consumer demand for transparency concerning material origins and production processes. While many gemstones and precious metals have been recycled for their intrinsic value, this aspect is not always clearly communicated. Stricter regulations, such as those stemming from the European Union’s Green Deal and the CIBJO Guidelines for Measuring ESG Performance, underscore the urgency for ethical standards in the industry, especially for smaller exhibitors who often lack the resources to meet these new requirements.
Inhorgenta itself embraces sustainability and ESG (environmental, social, and governance) themes through its programme, serving as a venue for innovative solutions while striving to operate sustainably. The Sustainability Area and TrendFactory showcase various projects, including blockchain for gemstone traceability and Fairtrade gold certification. This year, discussions focused heavily on the distinctions between natural and synthetic diamonds, addressing potential issues of greenwashing. Messe München aims to achieve CO₂ neutrality by 2030, having already implemented numerous sustainability measures including extensive photovoltaic systems and energy-efficient lighting.
Despite the persistent appetite for gold, diamonds, and gemstones—often associated with significant social and environmental impacts—the industry grapples with this paradox. There is increasing consumer awareness and initiatives aimed at promoting ethical sourcing, yet demand remains robust. Zalando’s term “attitude–behaviour gap” highlights this dilemma, indicating that consumers do not always act in line with their values. Addressing this challenge requires collaborative efforts across society, establishing equitable legal frameworks and encouraging individual companies and customers to make incremental steps towards sustainability, striving to be “As Sustainable As Possible.”
The next Inhorgenta event is scheduled to take place in Munich from February 20 to 23, 2026, and preparations are already underway, with companies eager to reserve their positions.