Story Highlight
– Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar sold for €85,800.
– Auction highlights Breguet’s historic and neo-vintage appeal.
– CEO Gregory Kissling leads brand recovery efforts.
– Breguet needs to align modern perception with vintage value.
– Upcoming auctions feature rare Breguet pieces for collectors.
Full Story
A Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar, reference 3050BA, dramatically exceeded its pre-sale estimate of between €15,000 and €30,000, fetching a remarkable €85,800 at Monaco Legend Auctions this weekend.
This auction outcome highlights the increasing recognition of Breguet watches, celebrated not only for their historical significance in the field of horology during the late 18th and early 19th centuries, spearheaded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, but also for the neo-vintage pieces produced under the Chaumet family’s stewardship when Daniel Roth was at the helm of watchmaking.
The yellow gold model that changed hands this weekend exemplifies the type of creations sought after by modern collectors. Introduced in 1976 amid significant challenges to the Swiss watch industry posed by inexpensive quartz alternatives, the model was born during Breguet’s tenure under the Chaumet family, who encouraged Roth to revitalise the brand’s classic designs.
This era, viewed as the pinnacle of Breguet’s legacy, preceded the brand’s acquisition by Investcorp in 1987 and its later purchase by Swatch Group in 1999, a move many believe did not serve the marque effectively.
A sense of optimism has emerged under Gregory Kissling, who became CEO in 2024 after two decades at Omega, successfully marking Breguet’s 250th anniversary last year. This celebration included the launch of the Classique Souscription, which garnered the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at the 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Breguet’s triumph was particularly timely in light of critiques from Steven Wood, the founder and chief investment officer of GreenWood Investors in New York. Wood has been vocal about his desire for a board seat at Swatch Group, which he believes is underperforming, particularly in the luxury watch sector. Wood’s firm has identified Breguet as a key focus area, advocating for improved retail experience, expansive personalisation offerings, a reduction in the variety of wholesale channels, and enhanced residual values. “We believe these steps can make Breguet once again king of the Swiss watch industry,” the firm maintains.
However, while Breguet’s auction success and broader secondary market performance can be a boon, it also presents challenges. According to Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult’s recent report on the Swiss watch industry, Breguet produced 5,800 timepieces last year, with an average retail price of CHF 35,256, significantly outpacing the current median secondary market price of $20,900 (CHF 17,155), despite a year-on-year increase of 12.5%.
To bolster its standing in the primary market, Breguet must ensure that perceptions of its contemporary offerings align with collector valuations for vintage and neo-vintage models. Notably, a buyer with a budget of around $30,000 can opt for a new Classique 5177 from a boutique or a pre-owned model for about $20,000.
The landscape for Breguet is intricate, reflecting two and a half centuries of history, requiring buyers to hold considerable expertise, especially when it comes to vintage or pre-owned pieces. EveryWatch has recommended three models in its 2026 investment watch guide:
1. The Breguet Tradition 7027: Launched in 2005, this model is now priced around $19,000 in the secondary market, having appreciated by 32% over the past two years.
2. The Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 3617: Currently valued at a median price of CHF 91,400, more than doubling from four years ago.
3. The rare Breguet Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Tourbillon Skeleton Ref. 3755BA: This model is suggested by EveryWatch as a speculative investment, having sold recently for $73,403, highlighting its complexity and potential value increase.
The outcomes from Monaco Legend Auctions underscore the complexities of the Breguet market. While the Roth-era Classique Perpetual Calendar outperformed and sold for four times its lower estimate, a 1960 Type 20 chronograph could not meet its €60,000 estimate, and a contemporary Tradition Seconde Rétrograde from 2024 sold near the middle of its estimate at €18,200.
As interest now shifts towards the upcoming autumn auctions, vintage watch expert Tony Traina is spotlighting a 2009 Breguet Ref. 3355PT00PA0 Classique Complication in platinum, which is up for bids at Philipps The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV. With an estimate between CHF 30,000 and 60,000, this intricate platinum tourbillon wristwatch may represent a significant opportunity, though its value will ultimately be determined by market dynamics, especially considering the Swatch Group’s stewardship history.
Breguet, a cornerstone in haute horlogerie, was established in Paris in 1775 by the renowned Abraham-Louis Breguet. He is often hailed as one of history’s greatest watchmakers, having developed early self-winding watches, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the tourbillon, among many other innovations.
Following the challenges faced over the years, Breguet, now based in Switzerland and celebrating its 250th anniversary in 2025, remains a prestigious luxury brand under the Swatch Group umbrella.
