Story Highlight
– Geneva Watch Days featured growing number of new releases.
– MB&F’s LM101 EVO combines simplicity with futuristic design.
– Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3 highlights artisanal craftsmanship.
– Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan merges art with watchmaking.
– Dennison ALD Dual Time offers stylish dual-time functionality.
Full Story
Geneva Watch Days has once again unveiled a dazzling array of timepieces, as industry insiders and enthusiasts alike recover from last week’s bustling event. This year’s exhibition saw an expanded number of brands participating, contributing to a rich selection of new models that have captured the attention of the watch community. In case you missed the announcements, a summary can be found here, along with previews of deeper insight articles to follow. Meanwhile, our editors have curated a selection of standout pieces from the event, showcasing a spectrum of styles from vibrant to intricate.
We invite you to share your thoughts on the new releases in the comments section after exploring our picks!
**MB&F LV101 EVO**
*Chosen by TanTan Wang – Editor*
Max Busser and his MB&F team have candidly stated that it was high time for a simplified version of their Legacy Machine to emerge—the LM101 EVO. This model encapsulates the essence of the LM101 with its uncomplicated design, prominently featuring an oversized balance wheel devoid of complications, while integrating a modern twist. The futuristic elements of the EVO are evident in its sleek case, which seamlessly incorporates a rubber strap, alongside enhanced features such as a water resistance of up to 80 meters and a screw-down crown.
The standout feature, however, is undeniably the vibrant green dial. With its advanced CVD coating, the dial exhibits captivating shifts in colour, transitioning from bright greens to hints of blue and purple under certain lighting conditions. The addition of this unique dials enhances the watch’s appeal, complemented by the esteemed craftsmanship of Voutilainen evident within the movement’s structure.
[Learn more about the LV101 EVO here.]
**Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3**
*Selected by Mark Kauzlarich – Senior Editor*
Among the impressive offerings, the Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3 stood out as a remarkable creation that showcases the blend of historical significance and modern techniques. Known for producing a select few exquisite pieces each year, Berthoud has gained recognition for its focus on horological mastery. The latest addition to the Naissance d’une Montre series aims to revive traditional watchmaking skills by creating almost entirely handcrafted items, using manual methods rather than modern machinery.
With a price tag of CHF 830,000 and an exclusive run of only 11 pieces, this watch incorporates a constant-force fusée-and-chain mechanism and a bimetallic balance, representing over 11,000 hours of artisanal work by more than 80 craftspeople. The philosophy behind this project involves imparting historical techniques to the next generation, ensuring the preservation of this delicate art. Further insights into this captivating piece will be shared in the upcoming weeks.
[Discover more about the Naissance d’une Montre 3 here.]
**Berneron Quantième Annuel in Black**
*Chosen by Jeff Hilliard – Director, Limited Editions*
The Berneron Quantième Annuel left a lasting impression on me, compelling further contemplation long after seeing it for the first time. The initial beauty of the timepiece is immediately striking, but the intricate details truly elevate its allure. The innovative steel “overcase” serves both as protection and as a nod to classic designs, particularly reminiscent of the Patek 3970.
Sylvain’s approach to the dial layout, which facilitates an intuitive reading experience, integrates aesthetic appeal with practicality. The watch boasts user-friendly features that make setting the annual calendar a breeze, catering to those who often find such tasks daunting. While it is positioned at a premium price similar to renowned brands, its thoughtful design and attention to detail affirm its value as a worthy investment.
[Read further about the Quantième Annuel here.]
**Zenith Defy Chronograph USM**
*Selected by Andy Hoffman – Senior Business Editor*
The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM marks an exciting collaboration that elegantly fuses the realms of watchmaking and furniture design. This model presents a unique incarnation of the revered El Primero chronograph housed within the iconic Defy case, known for its architectural sophistication.
An interesting aspect of this partnership with USM, a storied family business noted for its metalwork and design, is the shared ethos of craftsmanship and aesthetics. Available in a series of colours that echo USM’s characteristic palette, this limited edition of 60 pieces for each colour embodies a harmonious relationship between these two esteemed Swiss brands. It also comes with a bespoke piece of USM furniture, ensuring that collectors can indulge in both exceptional watchmaking and premium design.
[Find out more about the Zenith Defy Chronograph USM here.]
**Bulgari Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari**
*Chosen by Masahuru Wada – Editor & Web Producer, Hodinkee Japan*
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has firmly established itself as an iconic timepiece, known for its sleek lines and minimalistic charm. It serves as a versatile platform for artistic collaboration, including unique partnerships with notable figures in the art world.
This year’s Geneva Watch Days featured the Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan, which extends the boundaries of previous collaborations by showcasing a distinctly textured case sculpted through meticulous handwork. The contrast between its rugged exterior and the polished dial creates a dynamic visual experience. Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani’s artistry continuously resonates in this masterpiece, although I hope for a more compact version in the future.
[Explore the Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari here.]
**Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Série Atelier VII**
*Selected by Tim Jeffreys – Deputy Editor*
I appreciate designs that embody subtlety, and the Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Série Atelier VII exemplifies this beautifully. At first glance, it appears to be a simplistic timepiece with a traditional layout; however, turning it over reveals the intricate tourbillon, showcasing the brand’s technical prowess.
The attention to detail is notable, with the hour markers crafted to mirror Roman numerals, enhancing the watch’s understated elegance. Furthermore, powered by the new Calibre LF619.01 tourbillon movement, the watch promises an impressive 80-hour power reserve. With its elegant platinum casing and striking teal enamel dial, this timepiece stands as my personal highlight from the event.
[Learn more about the Classic Tourbillon Série Atelier VII here.]
**Dennison ALD Dual Time**
*Chosen by James Stacey – Editor-in-Chief*
The launch of the Dennison ALD Dual Time caught my attention immediately, despite initially skimming through its details. This timepiece strikes an appealing balance between aesthetics and functionality, particularly for those who appreciate a dual-time display in a classic design.
Offering a variety of case materials and vibrant dial options, including lapis and malachite, the Dennison appeals to diverse tastes. The simplistic two-hand display highlights the beauty of the chosen dial materials while ensuring clarity in reading the time. Priced at $890, it represents solid value for quality and style—making it an enticing addition to the collection.
[Read more about the Dennison ALD Dual Time here.]