Story Highlight
– Swiss watchmaking faces competition from emerging Chinese brands.
– CIGA Design’s Blue Planet won GPHG Challenge Prize in 2021.
– No Identity challenges design clichés with artistic timepieces.
– Memorigin specializes in unique, elaborate tourbillons.
– Shanghai Watch blends tradition with modern design elements.
Full Story
Swiss watchmaking has long been heralded as the pinnacle of horological craftsmanship, but a fresh wave of Chinese brands is now stepping into the spotlight, challenging this traditional dominance.
The recent HKTDC Salon de Time in Hong Kong showcased seven emerging watchmakers, highlighting the innovative spirit and regional identity that define these brands as they carve their niche in the global market. Their work underscores the importance of local culture in the evolving narrative of watchmaking.
**CIGA Design**
Renowned as a trailblazer in the region, CIGA Design gained significant recognition with its Blue Planet watch, which earned the GPHG Challenge Prize in 2021. This achievement marked a historic moment as it became the first time a Chinese timepiece received such an honour, outshining established Swiss competitors. The design of the watch features a dial that creatively represents Earth, showcasing hours and minutes through a miniature globe that rotates.
Staying true to the principle of form dictated by function, CIGA Design continues to refine its industrial aesthetic, most recently illustrated by the Advanced Skeleton Complication Watch Hunter Tourbillon. Priced below $2,000, this brand effectively merges haute horology with accessibility.
**No Identity**
Challenging the stereotype that Asian watch brands merely replicate Swiss designs, No Identity adopts a playful approach, subverting expectations. Founded from a passion for artistry and distinguished watches, the brand captures attention with its whimsical timepieces, such as the Octonoid. Created by creative director LABEG, these pieces reflect an artistic journey that began with cardboard and paint, resulting in unique, lighthearted creations.
**Memorigin**
Going beyond conventional movements, Memorigin has established itself as the first Hong Kong brand dedicated exclusively to tourbillon watches. Its designs embody a playful and imaginative spirit, showcasing the rising trend of Guochao—an appreciation for Chinese culture and identity in modern design. Memorigin’s pieces, such as the Hero Tourbillon Watch, exemplify this ethos, merging innovation with cultural influences.
**OLTO-8**
Founded in 2018, OLTO-8 derives its name from the symbolism of the number eight, representing an ideal balance of sleep, work, and leisure. This reflects the brand’s innovative approach, which blends various materials and inventive mechanisms. The latest Chrono Gate model, adorned with Moissanite stones and featuring a colourful design, exhibits a unique jumping hour display integrated into the 24-hour system, further enhancing its appeal.
**Bodberry**
Bodberry seeks to redefine perceptions of the ‘Made in China’ label, promoting it as a sign of authenticity and quality. Founder Gary Hau states, “While China has a well-established manufacturing sector, many renowned international watch brands source their components from here, often rebranding and inflating prices.” With this vision, Bodberry creates robust tool watches, utilising advanced materials like Cerakote, exemplified by the eye-catching Cerulean Blue Voyager.
**Aision**
Aision’s latest creation draws from Hong Kong’s rich visual history, utilizing the bold Beiwei calligraphy style that characterised the city’s street signs from the mid-20th century. Developing an entire Chinese typeface is no trivial endeavour, as it requires the design of thousands of characters. Designer Adonis Chan dedicated over a decade to perfecting this style, resulting in a timepiece that emphasises clarity and local heritage, featuring a 38.5mm dial inspired by traditional typography.
**Shanghai Watch**
As China’s inaugural domestic watch brand established in 1955, Shanghai Watch marks an important chapter in the country’s mechanical watchmaking history. The A581, its most iconic model, gained fame as it was worn by Zhou Enlai, China’s first Premier, symbolising the nation’s manufacturing capabilities. This historical significance is reinforced by the brand’s commitment to combining traditional craftsmanship with modern design and in-house mechanical movements, ensuring its relevance in today’s horological landscape.
These brands underscore a significant transformation in watchmaking, showcasing not only technical prowess but also a rich cultural narrative that invites collectors to rethink their perspectives on Asian craftsmanship.
