Story Highlight
– Rolex’s secondary market share dipped 3.3% in 2025.
– Demand shifted towards dressy styles and refined aesthetics.
– Rectangular case watches grew by 9.3% in popularity.
– Vacheron Constantin saw 13.4% market share growth.
– U.S. market prices increased by 8.43% in 2025.
Full Story
Rolex has solidified its position as the leading brand in the pre-owned watch market, yet recent analysis from Chrono24 reveals a slight dip in its secondary market share, which decreased by 3.3% in 2025. This change has been interpreted as a sign of a more stabilised market following years of rampant buying and selling.
Chrono24 comments on the brand’s continuing influence in the industry, stating, “The launch of the Land-Dweller collection immediately triggered search spikes, proving that mechanical innovation, rather than mere colour updates, is what activates the core collector base.”
The report also highlights a shift in consumer preferences toward more formal watch styles, which has impacted the desirability of Rolex. The height of the brand’s dominance was characterised by models such as the Submariner, GMT Master, and Daytona, which were iconic in the luxury sports segment. However, 2025 marked a change in trends, with a notable increase in the popularity of dress watches; trends saw rectangular-shaped timepieces rise by 9.3% and Champagne dials grow by 7.9% according to the platform.
Balazs Ferenczi, head of brand engagement at Chrono24, noted the significant changes within the market, suggesting that the recent data indicates a return of serious collectors over opportunistic investors. “The ‘Tourist Investor’ has left, and the ‘True Collector’ is back in charge… a 13% jump for Vacheron or a 9% rise in rectangular watches happens because enthusiasts are refining their tastes, not chasing quick flips,” he explained.
Looking forward, Ferenczi anticipates that these trends will deepen in 2026. The focus, he indicates, is likely to shift towards more wearable designs and vintage influences, complemented by a newfound appreciation for bold colours and innovative materials. He stated, “Sustainability is no longer just a ‘nice to have’… ethical standards are becoming a baseline expectation, especially for the younger generation entering the market.”
In addition, the report unveils several noteworthy findings:
– **Elegance Over Size:** Collectors show a marked preference for sophistication, moving away from the “bigger is better” mindset of previous years.
– **Shape Preferences:** Rectangular watch cases saw a 9.3% increase in demand, challenging the dominance of round designs.
– **Colour Trends:** Traditional blue and black dials remained static, whereas “jewelry-adjacent” colours like green, Champagne, and gold saw significant gains.
– **Mechanical Appreciation:** The popularity of moon phase complications surged by 15.3%, illustrating a renewed interest in intricate mechanical designs.
– **Classic Styles:** Cartier benefited from the trend towards dress watches, recording an 8.3% year-on-year growth, largely due to continued interest in its longstanding Santos and Tank models.
Among the high-end brands, Vacheron Constantin emerged as a standout, recording a 13.4% growth and outperforming its renowned competitors, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The Overseas collection particularly thrived, indicating a robust demand for versatile luxury watches.
IWC also experienced a significant rebound with a 14.4% increase in sales, mainly driven by its Pilot’s and Ingenieur timepieces. This reflects a revival of interest in brands that blend engineering precision with accessibility.
In contrast, Tudor maintained steady growth, achieving an 8.7% increase, reinforcing its appeal in the under £5,000 segment, especially with its Black Bay models.
Geographically, the data reveals contrasting fortunes: the United States outperformed global markets, with average transaction prices increasing by 8.43%, while Europe showed modest stability, reflecting a slight price development of just 0.28%. This indicates that despite global economic challenges, the secondary watch market remains relatively resilient and disconnected from broader market fluctuations.
