Story Highlight
– Rising tariff uncertainty prompts shift towards independent watchmakers.
– Microbrands gain popularity via social media engagement.
– Swiss watch status declines; new brands gain cachet.
– Inflation and tariffs make Swiss watches increasingly expensive.
– Independent brands focus on local production and craftsmanship.
Full Story
The landscape of watchmaking in Europe is undergoing significant transformation as both retailers and consumers seek alternatives to the longstanding dominance of Swiss luxury brands. Nearly a year of tariff unpredictability, combined with a surge of interest in independent watchmakers, is prompting a closer examination of non-Swiss options.
Countries such as Britain, France, and Germany have rich watchmaking legacies, yet Swiss brands have historically established themselves as the authority in fine mechanical timepieces, particularly since the quartz crisis. This historical dominance has often overshadowed the efforts of their European counterparts.
Post-pandemic trends indicate a shift in consumer preferences, with digitally-focused microbrands and independent watchmakers leveraging social media to connect authentically with enthusiasts. These independent creators can share their stories and communicate directly with the watch community, creating a sense of authenticity that rivals that of their Swiss competitors.
In the UK, the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, alongside Francéclat in France, has emerged as a vital support network for domestic watch industries. Events such as the Wind-Up Watch Fair, WatchPro Salon, and Dubai Watch Week have spotlighted these smaller brands, placing them alongside Switzerland’s prestigious houses.
This year’s tumultuous tariff situation has further fueled the appeal of non-Swiss brands. American consumers have responded to a 39% import tax on Swiss watches by exploring alternative options. Now, as the tariffs have stabilised to a flat 15% rate, the shifts in buying patterns initiated in 2020 continue to resonate.
The “Swiss Made” label, once essential for prestige in the US market, has lost some of its allure. Brands like Breitling, Omega, TAG Heuer, IWC, and Panerai are not perceived with the same level of status as they were two decades ago. A new generation of watch aficionados values unique, contemporary designs from independent labels just as highly as traditional Swiss classics.
Rising tariffs, soaring precious metal prices, a strong Swiss franc, and inflation have all contributed to substantial price increases for Swiss watches. Many models are now selling for up to 20% more in the US than the previous year due to multiple price increases throughout 2025. While hopes are pinned on Swiss brands reducing some of their prices following the tariff reductions, the perception that they have become excessively expensive remains a concern.
In collaboration with Francéclat and others championing non-Swiss watchmakers, WatchPro is showcasing a diverse array of innovative independent brands that have captured attention this year.
Francéclat works towards enhancing the French watchmaking landscape by uniting stakeholders, from manufacturers to component suppliers. Its mission focuses on bolstering local production and developing a competitive market ecosystem for French horology.
Several independent French watch brands, as well as noteworthy makers from elsewhere in Europe, demonstrate this burgeoning movement.
**1977**
Emerging as a beacon of French watchmaking revival, 1977 was launched in 2023 as a subsidiary under the Pierre Lannier brand. This family-run venture, led by Pierre and Laura Burgun, aims to foster a self-sufficient French watchmaking industry, prioritizing local design, assembly, and sourcing. Their watches boast the “Guaranteed French Origin” label, ensuring that at least 75% of production costs originate from France.
**Pequignet**
Founded in 1973 by Émile Péquignet, the brand has experienced a turbulent journey but has regained momentum under the Maisons & Manufactures umbrella, which reinforces its production on home soil. Pequignet’s uniqueness lies in its capacity to create in-house movements, keeping the entire manufacturing process local.
**B.R.M Chronographes**
Established by motorsport enthusiast Bernard Richards in 2003, B.R.M Chronographes prides itself on producing every watch in Magny-en-Vexin. The brand employs cutting-edge technology alongside traditional craftsmanship, allowing for high levels of customization.
**Hegid**
Founded in 2015, Hegid has gained recognition for its modular watch design, enabling users to personalize their timepieces swiftly. By using high-quality local materials and emphasizing durability, Hegid showcases the synergy between design and practical innovation.
**Beaubleu**
Nicolas Ducoudert founded Beaubleu in 2017, focusing on sustainable craftsmanship. The brand produces limited edition watches, emphasizing traceability and repairability, all while operating from Paris.
**Yema**
Founded after World War II by Henry-Louis Belmont, Yema has advanced significantly in developing its own calibres and local assembly capabilities. The company has introduced various innovative models, including the Superman Tourbillon, which reflects the merging of artistry and professional reliability.
**Trilobe**
Since its inception in 2018, Trilobe has captivated collectors with its innovative dial design that utilizes rotating rings to indicate time. The brand has garnered recognition for its unique aesthetic and mechanical ingenuity.
**March LA.B**
Champions of responsible watchmaking, March LA.B emphasizes a fully Swiss-made and French-assembled philosophy, culminating in the creation of the G100 movement utilized in their Bonzer Automatic dive watches.
**Alexander Shorokhoff**
For over 30 years, German watchmaker Alexander Shorokhoff has embodied creativity and technical excellence in his timepieces. The brand’s Full Calendar Cadamomo exemplifies high artistry combined with functional horology.
These emerging brands illustrate the burgeoning potential of European watchmaking beyond the confines of Swiss industry. The ongoing evolution in consumer preferences promises a vibrant future for both established and independent watchmakers across the continent.
